Category Archives: Culture Shock

Back in the Valley

It’s hard to believe that three weeks have passed since the fateful day of my depart from Saint Etienne. It’s hard to believe that I still have not found employment after starting my job search back around March; but I don’t want to talk about that.

It was a great challenge for me to have to leave the place I love (France) and people that I have grown to love in order to come back to a place where I have very few connections (other than my family) and where there are few opportunities in my field (photography/writing/marketing, preferably non-profit). However, I am trying to make the best of it.

The beginning was strange. The reverse culture shock. The weirdest of all was not speaking English with people I know, but hearing English ALL THE TIME. In the coffee shop. At the gas station. At the mall. On television… You get the idea. It was the overheard conversations as well as the conversations with service people/strangers. See, when in France I was so accustomed to hearing French and having to pay only slightly more attention to hear the conversation, that my ears would perk up any time English was around. So it was weird, and still is a little, to have English be the main-liner again. I didn’t have to try to pay attention, but rather to not pay attention.

Since coming back to “upstate” NY (the Mid-Hudson Valley) I have been trying to stay as active as possible. I took a few trips down to “the city” and have been continuing my job search, as well as expanding my online presence/networking.

PIEROGI!

So I’ve been traveling for the last two weeks. It’s been tiring, but epic.

I’m in Warsaw (Warszawa), Poland right now.

I just needed to share the emotion I felt today.

I finally ate pierogi(es) in Poland. It was a greatly fulfilling meal.

I sort of felt like I came full circle, with my Polish ancestry and our family’s tradition of pierogi and holupki every year for Christmas Eve (even if holupki isn’t actually for me), the countless times I’ve eaten Mrs. T’s Pierogies, the one time we’ve made home made pierogi, and even the fresh pierogi I ate at Ithaca’s Apple Fest two years ago. I was waiting for it, and I must say… It was amazing.

That is all for now.

“How do you say ‘foie gras’ in English?”

{EDIT 11 MAY 2011: Click for a pronunciation guide of the word “foie gras.”}

So coming back from 2 weeks of vacation and tomorrow will be my first day back to school. Not much looking forward to la vie quotidienne.

I enjoyed my vacation immensely, in spite of the quantity of foie gras (pronounced fwaw grah in American English) that was presented to me, starting well before Christmas.

Foie gras covered with sesame seeds, bread, and an onion/peach mixture on the sideYou see, in France foie gras is a delicacy traditionally served on and around Christmas. When I asked my students what they do for Christmas, everyone said something about eating foie gras. This led them to ask how to say it in English. My response – we just say foie gras, as it only exists in French restaurants. Besides, if we were to translate it, most Americans, myself included, would not find it the least bit appetizing. So, if you don’t knFoie gras soupow what it is, I’ll leave you to your imagination, Google, or Wikipedia if you really want to know. In fact, normally it is a type of paté (purée spread) that is put on bread. It is served as a table appetizer.

During the past few weeks I’ve eaten foie gras at least a handful of times and it has gotten slightly better with each trial. Still not something I would buy, but I survive it. The only time I could not bear it was foie gras soup. It was too much to handle – pure foie gras with nothing else. The taste of regular foie gras is not that bad; I actually think my main problem is knowing what it is.

Snow + French people = Chaos

So the week before Christmas vacation, there were threats of a “big storm” that was said to yield about 10 cm of snow in the Loire. (10 cm is about 4 inches.) It was “alert orange” which means that it should be bad. And since the school transportation in France does not include large yellow buses, nor is it directed by the school district, but instead includes coach buses organized by some other entity, often the préfecture or réctorat, it’s possible to have school but no transportation. And this is just what happened last week.

As I said, there were threats of a storm and, as we are coming to learn, the French, at least in the Loire, do not deal well with snow. So they decided Thursday night to cancel all the school transportation in the whole département (like a county) for Friday. Well it did not snow one bit. I went to school Friday for nothing because I had no students, as they couldn’t arrive without the buses. This is something about the French system that I just don’t understand. I definitely think it is more practical the way it was for me in NY state – buses organized by the school, so if there is no bus, there is no school. What’s the point of opening the school if the students can’t come? And if the roads/weather is bad enough that the students can’t come, why should the teachers have to risk their lives to come? What sense does that make?

And now for part two:  yesterday.

Yesterday was Christmas, yes. Well it snowed here, and in spite of being used to “a lot of snow” being a few feet, I’d say we got a lot here. It was a few inches in reality, but since people here do not know what to do with snow, it was as bad as if we had had a real blizzard. Granted it was Christmas, I kind of understand why they wouldn’t want to work and go clean the roads, but really it’s a bit ridiculous. People go out on Christmas to be with family. It’s really just not safe that they didn’t bother to clean the roads. They were awful, completely covered in snow, ice, slush and gunk.

The Continued Battle with the Convection Oven

Because I’m an American in France and there are certain American delicacies I just cannot live without, I have been putting my microwave convection oven to the test.

The latest trial: Brownies. Now, it is possible to have brownies in France, but whenever I find them in a boulangerie they have nuts – and if you know me, you know I’m no fan of nuts. You can also find premade boxed brownies in the supermarket.

So, I originally found this recipe online, and since it claimed to be the “ultimate brownie” recipe, I had decided to give it a whirl. Since the first time I used it a few years ago, I’ve never had anything but compliments. Of course I won’t give away my secret touches, but the basic recipe is great too.

The web-site describes it  as a “tall like a cakey-brownie, [that] is dense like a fudgy-brownie.”

So here we go:

  • 8- 1 ounce squares of unsweetened chocolate (225g)
  • 1 cup butter (225g)
  • 5 eggs
  • 3 cups sugar (675g)
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla
  • 1-1/2 cups flour (170g)
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2-1/2 cups (here you can add whatever you want – nuts, chocolate chips, m&ms, whatever).

So now we’ve got the ingredients listed. Here are your instructions:

  • Preheat the oven to 375ºF or 190ºC (or I used 175ºC on my convection oven, yet it was just a guess)
  • Grease your baking dish/pan (original calls for 9” x 13” but you can use whatever you want, just adjust your cooking time)
  • Melt chocolate and butter in a saucepan over low heat; set aside.
  • Beat eggs, sugar and vanilla at high speed for 10 minutes.
  • Blend in chocolate mixture, flour and salt until just mixed.
  • Stir in the nuts.
  • Pour into prepared pan.

Then you bake. Original recipe calls for 35-40 minutes, but that really depends on your oven and the pan size.

I made a half batch (which contrary to popular belief is possible, in spite of needing 2.5 eggs. It is quite possible to use half an egg.) in a smaller glass dish, and it turned out fine, though admittedly I should have cooked it longer. It’s always a battle with this convection oven.

Thanksgiving Potluck

While in France there are a LOT of holidays, one of my favorites, Thanksgiving, does not exist here. So, you may be wondering what I did.

Well, not only did I teach about it to my students for about two to three weeks, but I also did celebrate it.

As it turns out, there are quite a few other Americans here in Saint Etienne, so we all got together and threw a potluck! Yes there was turkey, a fresh kill, from what I heard. Yes there was cranberry sauce – something pretty hard to come by here.

All in all there was a LOT of food. Apparently there was  a rule that if you didn’t bring a dish, you could only eat a coaster size plate’s worth. Luckily for me, I made an applesauce cake (in a convection oven, by the way) with cream cheese (difficult to find also) frosting that I made myself.

It did turn out alright, though I’m not certain it was cooked all the way in the very center.

In any case, it was a cool atmosphere and I was happy to have been with others for the holiday.

Toussaint Vacation – Part 1

We are now in our first period of “vacances scolaires” (school vacation) – for the Toussaint holiday. We have a week and a half off from school.

Yes, we have only been working for 3 weeks. Yes strikes have canceled many of our classes.

Welcome to France.

So, as I am off from school, today I went to Grenoble, a very beautiful city situated in a valley of the French Alps, just under two hours from Lyon by regional train.

Shivering as Jovani, another English assistant, and I exited the train station, we both realized that we were not properly prepared for today’s cold temperatures and the mountain wind chill.

The train station is in the “Chinatown” type area of the city, but our first stop was the Office de Tourisme to find out places of interest, i.e. tourist attractions.

We learned that Tuesday’s in France are not only the accepted day to have strikes – but also the national day of museum closures. Not that there were demonstrations or anything, but the guy at the tourism office, who would not give us any of his own opinions on must-see attractions or delicious restaurants, told us we could not visit the main museums because it was Tuesday so they were closed.

He did however point out three museums that would be open – one of which was the Museum of Natural History.

In a desperate measure to get out of the cold, we decided to go there – as it was the only one open in the morning.

It turned out to be really interesting and cool! The main focus was on animals found in the mountains and other regions of Europe – with preserved animals on display. The museum also featured a section on minerals – complete with glowing rocks in an UV light display-case. Another exhibit showed countless species of insects including butterflies, moths, beetles, fossils of insects, insects that looked like leaves, and many more.

Teleriferique in GrenobleAfter leaving the museum we eventually settled on eating lunch in probably the most touristy restaurant the town had to offer – the restaurant on the top of a mountain.

We took the Teleriferique – basically, bubbles on a wire that carry you up like a ski lift – to the top where we took pictures of the incredibly breathtaking view over Grenoble and across from the snow-capped Alps.

Finally we went for our food. I had a dish with some type of pork, vegetables and potatoes. The sauce on it reminded me a little of mayonnaise.

After lunch we happened upon a really unique art exhibit (Token Omen) of an American artist named Johnston Foster. The works were all created from items found in the garbage. The following pictures showing the works can describe better than my words.

Shark from Token Omen by Johnston Foster

Beehive from Token Omen by Johnston Foster

Dogs and Cactus from Token Omen by Johnston Foster

Snake and Cactus from Token Omen by Johnston Foster

Skeleton from Token Omen by Johnston Foster

For the third and final museum, we went to one on the top of the mountain, and the topic was the troops that guard the Alps. It was pretty interesting and I had not even realized these troops existed.

Upon our safe return to the valley, we walked around and ended up at Haagen Daz where we ate some unbelievable dessert.

We finished the day zig-zagging through the pedestrian streets and entering, browsing, and exiting the countless boutiques along the way.

Vive la France … Vive les Grèves !

I admit, I was a little worried last week when I heard there would be a nationwide strike in France today. And in spite of having experienced French strikes in Paris, I did not know exactly what to expect.

So, this morning, I got up, got ready like normal, and rode in the car with my roommates, knowing only that we should expect it to be “a day of movement,” as one of the English teachers put it.

I had wondered if there would be students if there should be a strike, and the same teacher told me, “well that is the question, isn’t it.” He said sometimes the students block the school,to participate in the strike.

Well, we arrived this morning to find understand what it means to “block” the school; all but one entrance to the school was literally blocked – with wood … and students. The students stayed outside the school and only a few entered to go to classes.

Personally, I had no students in my first class and now I am in the school waiting for my other class at 4pm, for which I have no clue whether or not I will have any students.

I hear the strikes are going to continue through the week in transportation but not in education, though one never really knows.

Willkommen im Wien

Four the last four days I’ve had unique and fun experiences… in Vienna, Austria. This was my first time in a German speaking nation and my first time in a country where I can barely even say, ,,Es tut mir leid. Ich kann Deutsch nicht, sprechen Sie Englisch?” (“I’m sorry. I don’t speak German, do you speak English?”).

I have traveled in countries (namely España and Italia) where I don’t speak the language well, but where my knowledge of French and the little Spanish/Italian I took in college helped me get by. (Though, I did go to Amsterdam, The Netherlands, where they speak Dutch, but it was not a problem since literally everyone speaks English – and you don’t really even need to ask.)

It was really odd to not be able to understand a single thing on any sign or any words overheard. And the one or two times I heard some French tourists it felt like music to my ears! If you’ve ever visited a place where you don’t speak the language, but you are bilingual in two other languages, you’ll understand that even the language which is not your natural one is welcome.

Lucky for me, I was visiting my friend Alex – a friend from high school whom I had not seen since then (four years) – whom had been studying in Vienna since October, and who happens to be a German major at his college, so that was very useful with my lack of German skills.

I did/do feel badly about making him act as interpreter the whole time, because I know how it is being expected to understand everything you see and hear and have to communicate for others. In spite of my recent interest in translation, it can be quite tiring when it is not your job, merely an expectation with your travel buddies.

In any case, the whole four days was pretty much a whirlwind. It was weird being led around and not having to be independent the whole time. I pretty much didn’t go anywhere alone, which is usually not my style at all – I typically explore and photograph places on my own which generally involves getting lost and finding my way. I find it to be the most productive way to get to know a place, practice a language, and not annoy other people every time I want to stop to take pictures. That said, exploring places with a buddy is nice too because you might see something that you wouldn’t have otherwise noticed, and you can talk about the things you are seeing.

Because I spent most of my time following and not navigating, also because my sightseeing was actually on more of my schedule – starting in afternoon and ending in the evening – it almost feels like I didn’t see much. I followed Alex all over the city, up and down stairs and escalators, across metro stations, in and out of trams, and past architecture from several different styles. But when I really take a step back to process and gain perspective, I really did quite a lot and even got to sleep in, relax, and watch some movies.

Linguistic Remarks

When we first arrived, I had a lot of confidence for my language skills, as I had lived in Paris for a semester and I just finished a bachelor’s in French. So I expected to be perfectly fine, linguistically.

Well, in fact, I encountered some difficulties. Firstly, in Dijon the accent is different from what I’m accustomed to: Parisian and my professors. The other big problem I faced was the amount of time I was spending speaking English with the other members of our group.

I spoke French as frequently as I could, but it was nothing compared to when I lived here and now. I spend pretty much all day, every day in Dijon surrounded by my American friends and seldom used French for more than ordering something at a store. We had interpreters also, since most people on the trip did not speak any French.

So, after long days speaking English, I would come back to the hotel and talk in French with the people at the reception desk, and it did not even matter about what. I just wanted to talk in French. But I found myself losing confidence because I could not understand some of what they said and I was slow in my own speech.

Well, luckily it is coming back. I did have some good conversations where I felt at ease while in Dijon.

But now in Paris, it is a totally different story. I spent much more time either alone or actually with Francophones. I say francophone because I visited with a friend who is actually from the Ivory Coast, but with whom our common language is French.

In any case, I’ve been spending much more time speaking French and now that I’ve been without the group for more than a day, I’ve used practically no English, as I’m staying with a French woman named Véronique who does not really speak English.

Now I am back to where I was when I studied here – having difficulty maintaining English without inserting random French words, since I’m finally thinking in French again.