Tag Archives: art

Toussaint Vacation – Part 1

We are now in our first period of “vacances scolaires” (school vacation) – for the Toussaint holiday. We have a week and a half off from school.

Yes, we have only been working for 3 weeks. Yes strikes have canceled many of our classes.

Welcome to France.

So, as I am off from school, today I went to Grenoble, a very beautiful city situated in a valley of the French Alps, just under two hours from Lyon by regional train.

Shivering as Jovani, another English assistant, and I exited the train station, we both realized that we were not properly prepared for today’s cold temperatures and the mountain wind chill.

The train station is in the “Chinatown” type area of the city, but our first stop was the Office de Tourisme to find out places of interest, i.e. tourist attractions.

We learned that Tuesday’s in France are not only the accepted day to have strikes – but also the national day of museum closures. Not that there were demonstrations or anything, but the guy at the tourism office, who would not give us any of his own opinions on must-see attractions or delicious restaurants, told us we could not visit the main museums because it was Tuesday so they were closed.

He did however point out three museums that would be open – one of which was the Museum of Natural History.

In a desperate measure to get out of the cold, we decided to go there – as it was the only one open in the morning.

It turned out to be really interesting and cool! The main focus was on animals found in the mountains and other regions of Europe – with preserved animals on display. The museum also featured a section on minerals – complete with glowing rocks in an UV light display-case. Another exhibit showed countless species of insects including butterflies, moths, beetles, fossils of insects, insects that looked like leaves, and many more.

Teleriferique in GrenobleAfter leaving the museum we eventually settled on eating lunch in probably the most touristy restaurant the town had to offer – the restaurant on the top of a mountain.

We took the Teleriferique – basically, bubbles on a wire that carry you up like a ski lift – to the top where we took pictures of the incredibly breathtaking view over Grenoble and across from the snow-capped Alps.

Finally we went for our food. I had a dish with some type of pork, vegetables and potatoes. The sauce on it reminded me a little of mayonnaise.

After lunch we happened upon a really unique art exhibit (Token Omen) of an American artist named Johnston Foster. The works were all created from items found in the garbage. The following pictures showing the works can describe better than my words.

Shark from Token Omen by Johnston Foster

Beehive from Token Omen by Johnston Foster

Dogs and Cactus from Token Omen by Johnston Foster

Snake and Cactus from Token Omen by Johnston Foster

Skeleton from Token Omen by Johnston Foster

For the third and final museum, we went to one on the top of the mountain, and the topic was the troops that guard the Alps. It was pretty interesting and I had not even realized these troops existed.

Upon our safe return to the valley, we walked around and ended up at Haagen Daz where we ate some unbelievable dessert.

We finished the day zig-zagging through the pedestrian streets and entering, browsing, and exiting the countless boutiques along the way.

It Didn’t Even Rain, But I Enjoyed the Art

I had already been to Barcelona once before, but I decided to go back because I had fallen in love.

Well, because I’d been there before, I actually did not know what I wanted to do – as I’d visited most/all of the main tourist attractions already – and it was supposed to rain.

I decided I would go to museums that I had yet to visit, so I went to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, which is in a huge palace. This museum comprises everything from gothic art to contemporary art, so everyone will probably find something that they like since it covers practically every era.

My favorite part was actually the temporary exhibition at the time (It’s actually still up until some time in September, so if you find yourself in Barcelona, check it out): “Prague, Paris, Barcelona. Photographic Modernity from 1918 to 1948″.

This exposition had several sections with different types and uses for photography during the period. It showcased artists like Man Ray, Brassaï, François Kollar and Germaine Krull and others. According to the web site, the exhibition’s objective was to compare the avant-garde photography in Paris and Prague to what was happening in Catalonia.

I loved the exhibition and the several Salvador Dalí quotations about photography (from Photography, Pure Creation of the Mind)  that introduced each theme. Some of the themes included: photography and light, photographic representations of the body, advertising, and more.

I didn’t take any photographs of the exhibition, but I have some pictures from the building:

Art in Vienna

In Vienna I didn’t enter many places, but I did get to go into the Albertina, which is a palace/art museum housing a lot of modern art (not really contemporary).

This is the entrance to the museum at the Albertina in Vienna.

I really enjoyed the entrance, pictured at left. The picture doesn’t do it justice, but the stairs and the great chandelier at the top were slightly overwhelming. Before the stairs, there is a corridor with mirrors on either side and sculptures of monkeys doing different activities, such as reading a book, painting, playing with a toy train, and more. It was quite strange and did not really seem to fit with the elegant architecture and mirrors.

At the time I went to the museum, I was lucky enough to see a great photography exhibit of Heinrich Kühn, a German photographer and scientist that lived from 1866-1944 and was a major supporter of photography as art. He participated in the pictorialist movement, which used soft focus (blurry) and domestic imagery, as well as images of nature and still life. It was inspired by painting and the idea was to try to make the images appear like paintings.

One of the rooms decorated for the era.

The exposition was separated into sections that had different thematic ties, as well as being relatively chronological. A large focus of his work, as well as pictorialism, was images of his family, particularly his children. The family also had a nanny, and Kühn would photographer her as well. There was also a section of the exposition that had a wall of projected slides of images Kühn never printed. Overall I really enjoyed the exhibition. I always find it really interesting to see old photographs by photographers I’ve learned about in history or to learn of photographers I don’t know about.

The museum also showcased impressionist works and had a section that showed the decor of the palace as it would have been. Better than describe that, see the photo to the right.

Dernier Jour en France, Juste pour Maintenant!

On my last day in France, I visited the Château d’Ecouen which has the Musée National de la Renaissance.  It is in a town neighboring Domont, which is where I stayed with a friend of my former host.

It was an interesting place because the architecture was clearly historical and inside they had all sorts of things relating to the renaissance. Some of the rooms had pieces of other renaissance style buildings – just architectural details. Other rooms had metalwork, some had armor, and there was a huge section, which was practically the length of one of the sides of the château that held 10 tapestries that all were part of the same series telling the same story. The tapestries easily went from floor to ceiling and were wider than they were tall. Remember this is a château – so high ceilings.

On the top floor there were some rooms with old jewelry and a room with ceramics, tiles, and another long room with glass work!

Overall the place was pretty cool. In the gardens outside there were some faux renaissance replica buildings – which Véronique said was part of a show that the place uses as a tourist attraction.

Here are a few pictures of things I found interesting:

It's apparently a watch...

I finished up that day by taking the train into Paris and visiting my friends Alix and Bertyle. I met up with Alix, helped her find a hat to go with a dress she bought for a wedding, and then we found Bertyle and went into a bar.

They both commented – and for that matter, so did my former host when I visited with her – that my accent in French had changed and that it was less noticeable. Also I noticed I was much more at ease when listening and contributing to the conversation with Alix and Bertyle than I was last year. Alix tends to talk really fast and I used to have a hard time understanding, but this time it was like magic and I just understood! I don’t know what changed.

In any case, it was a nice ending to 5 days in Paris.

A Place for Inspiration

If there is one image of Paris that people know other than the Eiffel Tower, it is the narrow cobblestone streets bustling with artists and street performers in Montmartre.

 Montmartre is an area in the northern part of Paris, and if you know any French, you may guess from the word “mont” that it is a mountain. Well, in fact, it is a large and steep hill, with access by narrow streets filled with markets, plenty of steep staircases, and even an elevator – though you have to pay for that because it is run by the RATP (the Parisian transport company).

If that’s still not familiar to you, the other stereotypical view of Montmartre features the several zigzagging staircases in front of the Basilisque du Sacré Coeur (Basilica of the Sacred Heart), a huge basilica that sits atop the hill.

These two aspects are what make this neighborhood well known because it was an area where many famous artists of the 20th century – and before – lived and worked, like Van Gogh, for example.

And in spite of the millions of tourists who pass through and the myriad of tourist shops, Montmartre is still a special place that has many secrets and maintains a kind of mysterious and romantic atmosphere.

Artists, portraitists, musicians, and performers of all sorts go there day in and day out to contribute to the creativity that you can feel in the air.

Now, obviously everyone will have a different experience there, but for me, it’s always an interesting time when I create unique memories.

Of course I’d been there before our second day, since I lived in Paris and had been here before that even, but the walking tour we had showed me new aspects that I had yet to see, like a small vineyard, Van Gogh’s atelier, and a sculpture of a man coming out of a wall.

After the tour I stayed and went to a café with some other people. When we finished, I stayed on to take some photos, and I ended up having an interesting conversation with one of the artists, seeing a comedic performance, hearing some accordion music, and witnessing romance – a kiss with the Eiffel Tower in the distance.

Pictures:

Dans un Atelier d’Artiste

On the last day in Dijon, we were supposed to have a lecture about French institutions. That sounded fun… But, we did not end up having that lecture due to Janice’s (the professor/leader of the group) serendipity!

She had gone to the market in the morning before our group visit of the Musée des Beaux Arts (Museum of Fine Arts) – which by the way has some unique contemporary and modern art work as well as very famous works from the renaissance and earlier. While at the market, she petted a dog, and then an older man came and started talking to her.

He asked her if she was a photographer and whether or not she was in the middle of looking for things to take pictures of. She told him that in fact she was. He responded by saying he new of an artist studio (atelier) that might interest her. She told us she weighed the consequences and ultimately decided that it was not too risky to follow him.

Where she ended up was in an artist’s studio where a woman named Aude restores paintings. She fixes old works from the 17th and 18th centuries, and probably other things as well. Quite fascinating!

Well, because this happened, Janice asked Aude if we would be able to come back to see the studio.

So, thanks to luck – we got out of a lecture and got to meet a very intriguing woman and see her workspace and some old and hurt paintings.

Aude studied in both France and Italy and is apparently a well-known art restorer. She gets works from museums and she told us that most often the damage is holes in the canvas.

All in all, a great and truly unique experience!

Pictures:

The entrance to the studio
At the top of the stairs before going into the studio

À 7 rue Hernoux, 21000 Dijon

On Friday we were fortunate enough to meet a French film producer, Anne Bramard-Blagny of ABB Reportages, who is based here in Dijon. Bramard-Blagny has made around 150 documentaries and written countless articles. She worked as a journalist for a newspaper in Lyon. She also created an association called the Friends of 7, which is dedicated to maintaining a cultural and artistic atmosphere at the Hôtel Maleteste and in Dijon, by hosting concerts and other types of cultural events in the courtyard of the “hotel.”

We visited the hotel and had a tour, guided by Bramard-Blagny’s jolly husband. During the visit, he showed us a part of the house built in the middle ages, as well as a wall that used to separate the city of Dijon from the outside – which used old stones from the third century A.D.! We also went upstairs and saw the very fancy and ornate old furniture.

The cobblestone courtyard had a small raised garden area with white stone sculptures and trimmed trees. Yellow roses hung from the second story in one corner and red roses, on a diagonal from the yellow, grew off the garden and in front of the oldest section of the house.

Anne invited us to come to the Friends of 7 event happening that night – which happened to be a Bolivian-themed party. A fair number of us, maybe 14 or so, ended up going.

The event was quite nice; we all sat sipping our wine or shots colored like the Bolivian flag (red, yellow and green), while listening to traditional Bolivian music. The charming string melodies danced in the quaint courtyard.

I had a lovely time, until it started to get really cold and windy. As it got later, I left with a few people and went back to the hotel. Overall, Friday was a great day!

Some photos:

wall with windows at the hotel maleteste

crowd for the bolivia event in the courtyard

one of the musical acts

table with food, in front of oldest part of house