Tag Archives: dijon

Linguistic Remarks

When we first arrived, I had a lot of confidence for my language skills, as I had lived in Paris for a semester and I just finished a bachelor’s in French. So I expected to be perfectly fine, linguistically.

Well, in fact, I encountered some difficulties. Firstly, in Dijon the accent is different from what I’m accustomed to: Parisian and my professors. The other big problem I faced was the amount of time I was spending speaking English with the other members of our group.

I spoke French as frequently as I could, but it was nothing compared to when I lived here and now. I spend pretty much all day, every day in Dijon surrounded by my American friends and seldom used French for more than ordering something at a store. We had interpreters also, since most people on the trip did not speak any French.

So, after long days speaking English, I would come back to the hotel and talk in French with the people at the reception desk, and it did not even matter about what. I just wanted to talk in French. But I found myself losing confidence because I could not understand some of what they said and I was slow in my own speech.

Well, luckily it is coming back. I did have some good conversations where I felt at ease while in Dijon.

But now in Paris, it is a totally different story. I spent much more time either alone or actually with Francophones. I say francophone because I visited with a friend who is actually from the Ivory Coast, but with whom our common language is French.

In any case, I’ve been spending much more time speaking French and now that I’ve been without the group for more than a day, I’ve used practically no English, as I’m staying with a French woman named Véronique who does not really speak English.

Now I am back to where I was when I studied here – having difficulty maintaining English without inserting random French words, since I’m finally thinking in French again.

Dans un Atelier d’Artiste

On the last day in Dijon, we were supposed to have a lecture about French institutions. That sounded fun… But, we did not end up having that lecture due to Janice’s (the professor/leader of the group) serendipity!

She had gone to the market in the morning before our group visit of the Musée des Beaux Arts (Museum of Fine Arts) – which by the way has some unique contemporary and modern art work as well as very famous works from the renaissance and earlier. While at the market, she petted a dog, and then an older man came and started talking to her.

He asked her if she was a photographer and whether or not she was in the middle of looking for things to take pictures of. She told him that in fact she was. He responded by saying he new of an artist studio (atelier) that might interest her. She told us she weighed the consequences and ultimately decided that it was not too risky to follow him.

Where she ended up was in an artist’s studio where a woman named Aude restores paintings. She fixes old works from the 17th and 18th centuries, and probably other things as well. Quite fascinating!

Well, because this happened, Janice asked Aude if we would be able to come back to see the studio.

So, thanks to luck – we got out of a lecture and got to meet a very intriguing woman and see her workspace and some old and hurt paintings.

Aude studied in both France and Italy and is apparently a well-known art restorer. She gets works from museums and she told us that most often the damage is holes in the canvas.

All in all, a great and truly unique experience!

Pictures:

The entrance to the studio
At the top of the stairs before going into the studio

Le Parcours de Chouette – C’est très chouette!

On our first evening in Dijon, we all noticed the bronze plaques on the sidewalk because they are engraved with caricatures of owls. At first we did not know what it was for, but the next day we were told…

Apparently the owl has, over time, become the mascot of Dijon. It had been a signature of an artist/architect (not sure which) from Dijon whose last name had some semblance of “chouette,” which is one word for “owl” in French (the other – hibou).

There are two types of these owl plaques, and they are found all throughout the town. One is a small (about 5 inches long by 2-3 inches wide) triangle (two sides the same length)*** with the petit chouette and the other is a large rectangle (about 15” wide by 2-3’ long) with a larger owl, a number, and the name of the town.

The triangles act as arrows that form an enclosed path throughout Dijon, leading people between the rectangular stops – of which there are about 34 – that mark important sites in Dijon, such as the Notre Dame church, the theatre, the market building, a fountain with a sculpture of Bacchus stomping on grapes, among many other things.

A few friends and I walked around this “Parcours de Chouette” (Owl Path) in the evening on around the second or third day. It was neat and the night was a good time because there were no other tourists going around.

 

Aux Vignobles de Bourgogne

One thing this area of France (Dijon, Bourgogne), and really much of France, is known for is wine. With 60 km of vineyards spanning a few hundred feet across, from Dijon down to Macon, the area produces some of France’s most famous wines.

We had the pleasure of taking a bus trip down the Côte de Nuits to the town of Beaune. On the trip we passed by 20 km of vinyards and several small villages. The bus driver maneuvered through narrow streets in old French villages, coming within a few feet of buildings on turns.

We stopped at Beaune and visited the Hotel Dieu, which used to be a hospital/nursing home. We went through the building, with our guide from the Burgundy School of Business guiding use and offering valuable information.

Inside the courtyard, we could see the roof of the building had colorful tiling – similar to other buildings in the area, like the cathedral in Dijon. Inside there were wooden beds  with red blankets and white pillows lining the walls in a cathedral-like room that had an altar at the end – because it was necessary to attend mass even if you couldn’t move.

After finishing there, we went to see the Palais des Ducs, which I didn’t find too impressive, actually. But what was amusing was our journey for the palais started at rue Paradis (Road of Paradise) and ended on rue d’Enfer (Road of Hell).

We had some free time and ate some decadent pastries while drinking some hot drinks (coffee/cappucino/hot chocolate).

On the way back to Dijon, we stopped at the winery our guide, Claude Chapuis, owns. He gave us a tour of the facilities and a breakdown of the process of making wine – then we tasted some white wine – which was good – in the cellar!

À 7 rue Hernoux, 21000 Dijon

On Friday we were fortunate enough to meet a French film producer, Anne Bramard-Blagny of ABB Reportages, who is based here in Dijon. Bramard-Blagny has made around 150 documentaries and written countless articles. She worked as a journalist for a newspaper in Lyon. She also created an association called the Friends of 7, which is dedicated to maintaining a cultural and artistic atmosphere at the Hôtel Maleteste and in Dijon, by hosting concerts and other types of cultural events in the courtyard of the “hotel.”

We visited the hotel and had a tour, guided by Bramard-Blagny’s jolly husband. During the visit, he showed us a part of the house built in the middle ages, as well as a wall that used to separate the city of Dijon from the outside – which used old stones from the third century A.D.! We also went upstairs and saw the very fancy and ornate old furniture.

The cobblestone courtyard had a small raised garden area with white stone sculptures and trimmed trees. Yellow roses hung from the second story in one corner and red roses, on a diagonal from the yellow, grew off the garden and in front of the oldest section of the house.

Anne invited us to come to the Friends of 7 event happening that night – which happened to be a Bolivian-themed party. A fair number of us, maybe 14 or so, ended up going.

The event was quite nice; we all sat sipping our wine or shots colored like the Bolivian flag (red, yellow and green), while listening to traditional Bolivian music. The charming string melodies danced in the quaint courtyard.

I had a lovely time, until it started to get really cold and windy. As it got later, I left with a few people and went back to the hotel. Overall, Friday was a great day!

Some photos:

wall with windows at the hotel maleteste

crowd for the bolivia event in the courtyard

one of the musical acts

table with food, in front of oldest part of house

From a seat at the Conseil Général de Bourgogne

In my time, I have seen quite a few governmental buildings, whether due to traveling or conferences or applying for a visa. I have also been inside of a few of them – sitting in counsel rooms and whatnot (thanks HOBY NYE) heard a few politicians speak live and in person, but never an international politician – until this past Thursday.

We had a planned visit to the Conseil Général de Bourgogne – the General Counsel of Burgundy – which represents the region of Burgundy and consists of representatives from the region’s 43 “counties”.

On the schedule it just said we’d be visiting the building with a person from the school, so I was surprised when I found out one of the representatives would be speaking to us while we sat in one of the assembly rooms.

The room was much smaller than the assembly room we sat in during HOBY, and neither was there a screen displaying all our names – but there were other main elements – chairs, microphones, and ancient architecture – from the building originally built for religious purposes in the third century! Also the chairs were apparently designed as replicas of those in Paris for the national government.

The discussion was quite interesting and I learned quite a lot about the divisions of the French government, a little about the recent reforms that have been put into effect and those being debated, as well as a breakdown of the budget of Burgundy, so the types of things the money is used for.

In general the national government takes care of the medical care, unemployment and housing, whereas this Conseil Général focuses on other things and has an entire section for the middle school program. Half of its budget is used on social aspects, and the other half for things like transportation, sports, culture, etc.

The politician spoke only French (well like 99%) and we had an American woman from the Burgundy School of Business as an interpreter. At the end she put me on the spot to explain to the politician who we were and what we were doing in Dijon, etc. It was ok in the end, but I was a little taken aback.

Overall it was quite an interesting experience.

Then once we got back to the hotel, there was apparently a demonstration happening – in the form of a parade! I think that it was against the recent reform to extend the age of retirement from 60-62.

That Homey Feeling

I have officially arrived in Dijon as of yesterday around 5 p.m. Life feels great, like the stars are in perfect alignment.

The flight was long and I couldn’t sleep, and after arriving at Charles de Gaulle Airport near Paris, all I had to look forward to was a 5 hour bus ride to Dijon. So, 16 hours of traveling in total.

At one point on the bus we stopped at a rest stop for a mandatory break for the driver. I had accidentally fallen asleep, and when I woke, was severely lost. I did not know where I was, and when I got off the bus and heard French, was even more confused. Apparently I had forgotten I was in France. Weird.

In any case, I now know and love it. It just feels right. I can’t explain it. Even though I’ve never been to Dijon before, I feel a deep connection, like I’m home or something.